Old 13th June 2012, 21:13   #41
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Yep. Most places it doesn't even need a windshield. It does need windshield wipers and seat belts even if it doesn't have a windshield or seats. It does need a hood and fenders. Doors?... that's probably optional. You must have as many seatbelts as seats if the car originally came with seat belts. Your tires can't be bald.

Lights. Needs one tailight and two brakelights. Headlights and turn signals are optional for day driving. Doesn't need marker lights or backup lights. It needs to stop, go and not create visible smoke. You are allowed a puff of smoke when you start it.... i.e. oil leaking through the valve guides. It can't leak anything on the ground.

Yes indeed. My demolition derby car passed New Jersey vehicle inspection.

I think the laws are more or less federal. Some states write fix-it tickets. Some have vehicle inspection programs. The rules are really close to the same.
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Old 13th June 2012, 22:41   #42
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honestly, i think doors are one you can kind of skate on quite a bit if circumstances allow, i think they're pretty lenient in general on jeeps for doors or lack of since well calling a thin sheet of plastic a door with a straight face is almost difficult and that's the way jeep shipped a good handful of them too.

mud flaps can be another oddball one, they're mandatory above a certain wheel/tire size in oregon and not just rubber ones, i believe you're required solid rigid ones, i think there's a maximum distance from the ground your headlights can be, but that may allow too much wiggle room considering aiming.

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Old 21st June 2012, 21:24   #43
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So now I need a new radiator according to the guy at Autozone. He says it's the cause of my car intermittently not starting. I get the thing to start after a couple key turns. The electrical checked out good. I don't see how the radiator is connected to that symptom. I do agree that I need a new radiator though.

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Old 21st June 2012, 22:46   #44
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you know, i don't even know why i tried to google up some answers for you, you've said you're just going to drive it into the ground.

at any rate, the most common things i see mentioned are overheating and the head gasket, have fun with your homework.

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Old 22nd June 2012, 15:07   #45
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I'm going to a mechanic in a little bit to hear what he has to say about it. Also going to ask other questions about noises I sometimes hear while driving.

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Old 22nd June 2012, 22:46   #46
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Quote:
So now I need a new radiator according to the guy at Autozone. He says it's the cause of my car intermittently not starting.
Uh... that doesn't sound too likely to me. Not starting... you mean like no starter or just won't fire over? Usually if you don't get anything... not even a click.. it's the key switch. Chev's are notorious for this. Don't put a bunch of keys or anything heavy on your keyring.

I'd flush and fill the radiator just as a matter of course. One way to see how bad your radiator is. Get the car to normal operating temperatures and feel the radiator. If you're blocked up, you'll feel cooler spots where the water isn't flowing anymore. Look for current under the cap. You should see the water start to move when the thermostat opens. That should be in 3-5 minutes after you start the car cold.

Absent any evident overheating, I don't think I'd suspect the radiator. You should be able to tell if it didn't start because of heat, because it would be hotter than hell to make that happen. Like melt the heads hot.....

Look for water in the oil and oil in the water. Either shows you have a cracked head or a head gasket leak. That would stop it from starting maybe. Water in the cylinder puts out the fire maybe. Not too likely. You can also usually tell from the spark plugs. If one or more looks like it's been steam cleaned....

Radiator problems? I don't really see how that would be without it just being blazing hot. Not starting would be a secondary symptom.
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Old 23rd June 2012, 01:45   #47
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The non-starting thing only happened the other day. Hasn't happened again yet. Usually I see a power loss(dash clock, radio...) if the battery is dead and I try to start the car(from previous happenings). Or it clicks. I saw no power loss but I couldn't hear a click either as the A/C was on. I turned off the A/C to try to hear a click and it started right up. Several times in about 2 hours(got it to repeat a couple times).

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Old 23rd June 2012, 05:49   #48
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i still have to wonder why you didn't ask the guy at autozone to explain his thinking, i have to agree with RoH, it seems incredibly unlikely which is all the more reason to have asked him to explain his reasoning behind it.

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Old 23rd June 2012, 10:22   #49
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So now I need a new radiator according to the guy at Autozone. He says it's the cause of my car intermittently not starting. I get the thing to start after a couple key turns. The electrical checked out good. I don't see how the radiator is connected to that symptom. I do agree that I need a new radiator though.
Agreed with rockouthippie here - the guy at Autozone is talking through his arse. IF your truck NEVER had a radiator in it, it would still start, albeit overheat after a few minutes of course. More likely it's an electrical problem - I'd be looking at a lazy starter motor first...

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Old 23rd June 2012, 11:01   #50
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Chevy's are notorious with the key switch. "On" or "Start" usually gets intermittent.

If the starter is going, maybe the coil? Or a loose wire? Bad coils can do it and you won't notice really when it's running because you'll diesel through the rough spots.

I think I'd do a quick tune up and see what I had... if it's not blowing blue smoke, steam or spewing radiator fluid.

Basically if it doesn't boil over, it doesn't need a radiator. If there isn't water in the oil or oil in the water, and it doesn't make really loud ticking and clanking sounds, it's probably an ok motor.

If it is ticking a little, use a can of Marvel Mystery oil with your oil. Usually quiets the valves down. Clanking and banging. That's bad.

It'll probably last as long as you keep oil in it and don't ask more than half pedal out of it. These pickups are the rig poor old guys like me use for hunting and getting firewood.

You don't take your new truck down and tell the guy at the rock place... Fill er up..

It's nice to have a truck you can dent. Around here, they even get pretty mossy and it's sorta like driving a fish tank down the road.

Used to have a slant 6 Power Wagon. Ran for 300,000 miles. Dent... well we'll just hit er with a hammer a couple times so it's sorta truck shaped .... spray some primer............keep er from rustin' out.

Finally, she finally did just turn into moss. When I drove her down to the wrecking yard, I think I could have just pushed the windshield out with a good shove. You could toss cigarettes out the passenger floorboard.

It was the spare rig I had for about 15 years. How many times did it get borrowed, move people, move stuff I needed? I paid $500 for it at an auction and got about 150,000 miles out of it. It was just this old butt ugly orange forest service truck, but it did the job.

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Old 23rd June 2012, 22:38   #51
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i still have to wonder why you didn't ask the guy at autozone to explain his thinking, i have to agree with RoH, it seems incredibly unlikely which is all the more reason to have asked him to explain his reasoning behind it.
He said something like the engine was probably overheating and a gasket may have blown or some crap like that. Still going to replace it when I can but no rush on it.

I have a '94 Corolla and not a truck. I sometimes wish I had a small pickup though.

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Old 24th June 2012, 11:22   #52
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He said something like the engine was probably overheating and a gasket may have blown or some crap like that. Still going to replace it when I can but no rush on it.

I have a '94 Corolla and not a truck. I sometimes wish I had a small pickup though.
I still think that the only true part of that statement of his has the word "crap". If the engine is overheating, you'll know it pretty quickly - the temp gauge will go through the roof, and even if the gauge sis screwed, you'll hear the radiator boiling over.

As rockouthippie said, check your oil for the presence of water, and check your water for the presence of oil. Also, when the car is running, take a look in the coolant tank to see if any air bubbles are coming through. If none of those are the case, then your head gasket is probably fine.

Intermittent starting is an electrical fault, pure and simple - either a lazy starter, buggered solenoid, or busted ignition switch. You can narrow this down by shorting out the solenoid connections with a spanner (car out of gear, handbrake on, ready to start), but unless you know what I'm taking about, I'd suggest you find someone to help you. I have no experience with Chevy's, so I'll happily defer to rockouthippie's experience on this one, so check your key switch first. And actually, take a read through his post again and follow it to the letter. The man knows what he's talking about.

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Old 25th June 2012, 08:09   #53
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You don't take your new truck down and tell the guy at the rock place... Fill er up..
I do. I'm reasonably gentle setting down the heavier rocks, but when you have a bed that is made out of non-metal, you can haul rock, stone, and scrap metal all day every day with no dents or rust. With gravel, I toss a couple layers of canvas tarps over the bed rails so that when the front-loader bucket pours the gravel in it doesn't scratch the outside of the bed or tailgate/backup camera.

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Old 25th June 2012, 23:18   #54
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Yeah, I used to bid stuff in a super clean, nice truck and haul out the power wagon to do the job. Then you'd hide it so it didn't look like Jed was moving in... If somebody wanted to borrow my beater, I'd just toss em the keys. Not so with the nice truck. I'd leave the nice truck parked at the job. It had a sign. Of course very clean and fire engine red. That's basically what the new truck was. An $11,000 sign. It did haul some light stuff, but that wasn't it's job. It was to sit there and look pretty. I figured out it was easier to go and sell jobs in a nice, shiny, detailed red pickup, with my jeans and matching red flannel shirt. What would have been impossible is keeping that truck clean and using it for work.

I always had a clean flannel shirt and a clean t-shirt.... and a shiny red truck.

Had a show to do.

For what you paid for your Toyota, I probably could have come up with 4 work trucks and a pretty decent car. What is neat about new cars is that they are new. You've got about 40,000 miles of that. I'd be using it sparingly.

I'd like to have a Subaru WRX. But if I bought one, it might get 2000 miles a year on Sunday. Buy something cool and then leave it out for people to put door dings all over it... run into it... no thanks....

But it would be cool on nice days for some country roads or some freeway trips. Did I need a $40,000 ricer to get to the store?

With your commute, I'd be looking at a $4000 eco-popper to get me to and from work and only haul the truck out if you had to or really wanted to. Maintenance on trucks is killer... brakes, tires and shocks mostly. You could probably pay for an eco-popper just from taking miles off the truck. It's nice to run something where a set of tires is $150 and brakes are $20 if you gotta put a lot of miles on something.

I'm old and kinda broke. I decided I liked eating, I liked ~$1000 a year I took off the bills from riding a bike for short hops. I even bought commie CF lights. Maybe it's making me funny in the head. I heard Nancy Pelosi say something I agreed with today.

I think buying new rigs is kind of pissing away money. Driving them is as expensive.

I like a nice rig, but the main thing is that I put my butt in the seat and it goes where I want. The rest is really secondary. I get more jazzed about bicycles.

It's also just one of those things about life. It's much better to have a broken car you own than one you're paying on. It's much better to be out work with no car payment.

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Old 1st July 2012, 05:22   #55
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No vehicle payment here, just the vehicle paying me (I've been hauling a lot of truck/trailer loads of scrap). I do have to put garbage bags on the seat when I do scrapping. I have to walk through a landfill or barn, wrap chains around shit, then drive to pull it out, and do it again over and over. That scrap rust rubs on everything I touch. The door handle, shift knob, and steering wheel turn orange from it but clean easily. The seat is fabric and probably doesn't clean easily, hence the bags.

When I bought this truck, I knew I needed everything it offers and that it would be used to work for the next decade or two, and that I had no interest in putting a lot of maintenance or work into it. A pressure washer and a couple baby wipes (and some vacuuming if I forgot to switch out the driver's mat) make it look brand new, even after a lot of work.

The truck really wasn't all that expensive as far as new ones go. It has already paid for itself anyway, and is quite good on gas as far as trailer-pullers go. It does need its first replacement tires now though. That will be rough. It needs tires that can pull stumps and scrap out of collapsed barns, and cars out of ditches in the winter, while still having treadlife of a daily driver during the school year. I'm currently looking at BF Goodrich All-Terrains, which is what the truck was sold with, which were decent and are affordable compared to competitors. I prefer Michelin quality, but they don't really make worthy all-terrain tires, and Michelin owns BFG anyway.

I still need 4-wheel-drive and some ground clearance even as a daily-driver, or else I couldn't leave home or get back home in the rain or snow where I live during the school year, hence the Rav4 4x4. The path to the house is just too rough and steep for an everyday car like my old Camry. Those that visit park at the bottom and get taxied. An econo-box wouldn't work for us for that reason.

If someone wants to borrow the truck, they borrow me with it. I just can't let it go the way I used to with the older one, but I'm ok spending the time and doing favors.

I don't really believe in trucks that are meant only mostly to look good. I don't believe almost any truck can look all that good unless it's pulling, hauling, camping, or off-roading. Save the looks for exotic and luxury cars. I wouldn't have bought a Toyota if looks were what I wanted; other brands look at least a little better, but I love what Toyotas do, with no unnecessary distraction.

I have 200K miles ahead of each of these 2 vehicles, and won't have to think about vehicles or their issues during that time. I just think about what I need or want to do, and the vehicles just sorta do it, leaving me time to worry about other things.

I'll have some pics later of some of the work that's been done.

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Old 1st July 2012, 05:47   #56
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Rough and steep. That makes me think about the time we lived at Salmon Arm, British Columbia. We had to go see this one fellow about something. He told us on the phone to leave our car by the gate and take the old 4x4 up to his house. The road was more rock than road.
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Old 1st July 2012, 19:33   #57
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If I was gonna do wood cutting and stuff like that again, I'd probably just pony up and buy a small dump truck with a pup trailer. Why screw around with a pickup (or more than one and trailers) ? That 2 ton bread truck I had was good. I had about $2200 in that and sold it for the same.

A dump bed would take a lot of labor out of stuff. You could do more and different jobs. I've shoveled a lot of barkdust. It'd be nice to get that $50-$150 delivery fee instead of giving it to the yard.

Another piece of equipment that can pay for itself bingo... concrete trucks... I've done sidewalks. The last time I paid the concrete guys $350 to come out and pump a sidewalk. I'd rather be in the truck than breaking up old sidewalk. That took 20 minutes. Good money for everybody. It's easy to sell driveways and sidewalks. It isn't that expensive. It's even easier to sell pumped concrete.

Mixing up bags? No way. Not if it's bigger than a 10X10 patio. For one thing, with the truck you can just pour the whole thing at once and float it. Makes the forms easier and it comes out better work.

The right tool for the right job.
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Old 2nd July 2012, 04:29   #58
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Heh, my dad told me something I should have thought of first. When I was talking to him about replacing the tires with what was originally on it, he told me to just buy 3, and use the spare as the 4th (it's the same make/model). I then would look at the old 4, chose the one that's the least worn, and toss it on the spare rim. That drops the overall tire job price quite a lot! Now why didn't I think of that? I at least found out before buying, as I haven't done the job yet.

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Old 2nd July 2012, 04:31   #59
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Tires and brakes. Always murder on a truck.
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Old 3rd July 2012, 21:25   #60
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Seems the thermostat failed earlier today. Sitting in traffic the temp went to borderline redline(in under 2 minutes). When I started moving again it went back to normal operating temperature in about 10 seconds(according to the thermometer in the car). Going to replace the thermostat and possibly the radiator tomorrow sometime. Luckily the everything would only cost about $125 for parts(thermostat, radiator and seal).

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Old 4th July 2012, 00:26   #61
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Take the thermostat out and run it with no thermostat. Get a flush and fill kit ~$5 and flush the radiator out.

Drive it for a half hour. If it doesn't overheat, it's just the thermostat. They do stick sometimes. The thermostat just holds the block water in until the car warms up. In <5 minutes, it's supposed to open. If it doesn't, you overheat.

Use coolant, not water. Coolant has corrosion inhibitors which are very necessary.

Again... check for water in oil and oil in water and look for bubbles of air in the radiator. That would be a bad head or gasket.

Don't drive it overheated, because you'll crack the head or blow the head gasket. I've seen a lot of times where people drove them fucked up and multiplied their problem.

It might have a bad thermostat or radiator now, but that can turn into a cracked head or head gasket in a hurry.

That said, and I've only replaced a radiator once. Usually your radiator will only block up if someone has been running water and not coolant for a long period of time.

If that is the case, you've got a question. Because if the radiator is rusted up, the water jackets in the head are usually rusted up too. If you do end up changing the radiator, you want to get some engine block cleaner and do a flush and fill with that.
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Old 4th July 2012, 17:41   #62
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Hopefully in the next few days I'll get the radiator changed. I ran around for a bit this morning and it ran cooler than usual. I put some water in the radiator yesterday after it cooled down. Today I'm going to check out the thermostat with my dad. Hopefully the thermostat just froze up and replacing it will help out. We'll see what happens.

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Old 4th July 2012, 18:05   #63
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That sounds like a sticking thermostat. It can go: Froze open. That will make the car take forever to heat up. Froze closed. The car will overheat in 5-10 minutes. Sticky. You'll be cruising along fine and it'll just intermittently boil over. Froze half way. Probably fine until you climb a hill.

Another test is... squish the upper radiator hose. That should be full of water and pressurized. If it's mushy instead of stiff, your thermostat is closed.

I think you are getting way ahead of yourself thinking about the radiator, because that would be a lot rarer to have to change that. The thermostats likely even on the maintenance schedule. Replace after X miles. On an old beater, X miles have always expired.

Get a flush and fill kit:

http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AFKIT...h+and+fill+kit

a can of radiator flush:

http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AS107...gy_auto_text_b

Follow the directions on both.

a hydrometer (to make sure your anti-freeze mix is right)

http://www.amazon.com/E-Z-Red-S101-B...ds=htydrometer

Even if you end up changing the radiator, you wanted the flush to clean the water jackets in the head out. If the radiator is corroded enough to need a replacement, you can bet the water jackets don't look good either.

Again... always use anti-freeze, not just water. Make sure you wash down any anti-freeze you spill because it's sweet. Pets love it. It will kill them or really screw them up. 1 cup will kill a cat. 3 cups will kill a dog. Any will screw them up, make them blind.....give them seizures...

I've heard of people leaving this out for poisoning nuisance animals. It's a mean way to kill something. Real mean.
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Old 5th July 2012, 19:45   #64
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Car is being worked on at the moment. Picking it up soon.

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Old 5th July 2012, 23:54   #65
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Car seems to be running a tad warmer now but it does have a new radiator and new thermostat now. Next up is belts... hopefully this week sometime.

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Old 6th July 2012, 10:57   #66
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That's likely just a difference in the thermostat temperature. They come in 180 and 195 degrees. That is the block water temperature. The difference will show on the gauge.

It should just heat up to that spot on the gauge and stay there. Unless you were driving through hell uphill or something.... 15 miles of city traffic should tell the tale.

Belts. If it needs a timing belt, replace the tensioner too. Shop for belts. If you have a mechanic do the work, give him the parts. Shop markup is usually double and it's because no one wanted to screw with parts. I never had a shop mind that they didn't get the parts markup.
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Old 7th July 2012, 18:42   #67
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If you do timing belt or timing chain (belt/chain depending on model), it's often recommended that one replace the water pump at the same time, because the labor price is high for each, but it's the same labor, and they have about the same life expectancy, meaning it's a very convenient time to do both to save separate labor costs. If the water pump has already been replaced, then this isn't quite so necessary.

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Old 8th July 2012, 10:11   #68
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I'll have to ask my sister if she had the water pump done. I don't think she did. Belts I know she didn't.

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Old 10th July 2012, 05:07   #69
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I don't think I've ever seen a timing belt go past 80,000. It will not make your day. It's not likely to warn you. The timing belt will snap. The car will be a no-go... period...

Tow insurance?

Chains generally don't have a maintenance interval. You'd only fix that when it was broke. It is a reason to like chain driven ohc engines. No timing belt. Also probably 30% less power because the red line is way lower

If I didn't have a reason to figure that the car wouldn't run 30,000 miles, I'd probably spring for a new timing belt at first opportunity. Or you can just let it fail and decide then. It's $500 at the shop any way you look at it.

I think your water pump is gonna be on your timing belt. I think you have one external belt which drives other stuff... power steering/alt/ac etc... You want to fix any of those that are sloppy or noisy because it can screw up the bushings in things having a vibration.

You also need to tend the air conditioning. If you run it without proper refrigerant levels you stand a really good chance of seizing the compressor. So either take it off the pulley (never to be used again.. it's ruined if you do that... ) or service it.

It's a hell of a show. The belts burn off and make a BIG noise and smoke cloud. People will panic and think it's gonna explode.

Last edited by rockouthippie; 10th July 2012 at 06:17.
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Old 15th July 2012, 16:56   #70
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I did my old Camry timing belt at a little over a hundred thousand. Newer cars can go 90-100 these days. The recommended interval for that Camry was 90 and I was plenty late. Lucky it didn't snap I guess. I had the water pump done then too, along with plugs, wires, fluid flushes and other shit. I even spent $4 for the little clip that holds the hood support rod in place when it's down since I had accidentally broken it. That rod was rubbing the paint off without it's little clip when the hood was down. The bill was around 1200, but then I never had to do anything, and my brother still hasn't since it's now his car. My brother still thinks that's funny that I would pay for that rather than just letting it go. I suppose he was right considering the car's age and mileage at the time.

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Old 13th August 2012, 16:31   #71
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No one really enjoys entering sweepstakes...

EDIT/ I only ever do it if I'm guilt tripped into doing it Ex: "Enter sweepstakes for this new car! All proceeds go towards children's hospital" these are sweepstakes I enter and forget about, I don't care if I win... Some sweet old lady beside a sexy new mustang totally guilt tripped me into helping sick children.


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Old 13th August 2012, 18:55   #72
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I don't enter any sweepstakes/drawings or whatever. I never win and I lose a few bucks in the process.

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Old 23rd August 2012, 16:52   #73
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So the major major things are out of the way. Needs another oil change though. The big things left to fix is the alignment and new front tires. And door handles... Need the rear interior handles and the front passenger exterior handle replaced(~$80 for parts). Eventually a new windshield as well.

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Old 23rd August 2012, 21:15   #74
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So how much have you put into this so far? Don't need exact numbers I'm just curious is all. :P

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Old 24th August 2012, 02:35   #75
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more than the car is worth, i don't even have to guess, that's literally always the way with "free" vehicles, it's almost a matter of how long you can pay to keep it on life support typically.

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Old 24th August 2012, 06:16   #76
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It depends though. A lot of times it's still a lot less than alternatives when you look at total cost of ownership.

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Old 24th August 2012, 08:03   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike-db View Post
So how much have you put into this so far? Don't need exact numbers I'm just curious is all. :P
Somewhere around $500 so far including tags and inspection. Nothing seems to be wrong with it. Just needs to get up to date maintenance plus a couple other things(door handles...).

I'm adding a timing belt to the list of things to be updated. Not sure the last time it was changed or even checked.

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Old 24th August 2012, 21:27   #78
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And I've come across a parts car... Another freebie. Passenger side doors are trashed but it isn't bad otherwise. Probably grab the door handles and quite a few other things. I just need a place to put it.

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Old 25th August 2012, 06:19   #79
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Why not just strip the parts where it is?? Unless you need entire body panels or an engine block, I wouldn't bother bringing it home. Strip out the engine ancillaries (starter, alternator, etc), obviously take the car parts that you need right now, and scrap the rest.

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Old 26th August 2012, 16:00   #80
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I'm wanting to swap out a bit of stuff. I want the transmission as I think the one I have is on its way out. I want the seats just because... The tires if they're still good with rims for spare tires. Seat belts because my seat belt light is on all the time. And a few other things. Most stuff I want is cosmetics.

I'll try to get some pics of it later today.

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