Old 29th October 2011, 16:09   #1
Too-DAMN-Much
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Do It Yourself

this thing is getting too old to continue using, one of the edges is starting to curl up and it's got a burn mark and a few places of darkening that i cant seem to get out.



so i replaced it with this pad which in all honesty in hindsight is an overpriced piece of trash, it lasted a few months and also is the most comfortable pad i've ever owned.



however lately it's been developing an indent where my wrist sits which makes it difficult to point precisely with it but it was comfortable, so instead of just throwing it away i'm considering how to make it worth using again and sort of re-upholster it with the traditional material that won't develop permanent indents through normal use.

just in case, here is the aforementioned permanent indent.



it should be visible to the naked eye easily sitting just below half of the way up the image.

i also notice that where it's attached to the corner/edge of the desk piece of plastic that holds it into place it looks like it's taped on the back and glued on, surely i could separate the two easily with an exacto knife.



it almost looks like duct tape with a fabric backing honestly.


this only leaves one real problem.
well... have a guess


yep, that's right, the mouse pad i'm looking to sort of reupholster is about a one foot by one foot in size, so the problem then, where do i find the the material by the foot cut to length?

it gets worse from here, http://lmgtfy.com/?q=DIY+mouse+pad
you'll find hundreds upon thousands of pages about how to print your nice faggoty floral design onto a cheap piece of craft foam (which in all honesty i'd guess will develop a nice indented flaw just like the shit i'm replacing) along with a few handfuls of pages about how to saw up a perfectly good nonstick teflon fry pan and suffer through using that, what you don't find though is any sort of idea where i might go either in reality or on the intarwebs to find mouse pad material by the foot cut to your specifications.

so in conclusion, if you can help me locate any store offline or on that i can purchase mouse pad material - NOT faggoty floral foam or teflon to cut from a frying pan - by the foot, or yard (i'm not sure which is accurate here) i'd be most grateful.

also if you want to use this thread as a what did you just DIY type list feel free, but please stay on topic of the current (my) project until i have the information i need.

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Old 30th October 2011, 15:54   #2
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A mousepad? Aren't they like 50 cents each?

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Old 30th October 2011, 16:17   #3
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Depends on the mouse pad, some gaming mouse pads are ludicrously expensive

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Old 30th October 2011, 17:44   #4
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^ Really? I haz an Anywhere Mouse™ (good mouse) I do not need a mouse pad.
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Old 31st October 2011, 01:32   #5
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i think that one was like $30 when i got it.

if not for developing an indent like that it's perfect.

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Old 31st October 2011, 02:50   #6
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Quote:
re-upholster it with the traditional material that won't develop permanent indents through normal use.
I think you're kinda screwed on this idea. For one thing, you'd need adhesive that would stick to the pad, not melt it, and not be stiff so when you bend the pad it just doesn't all crack out.

Contact cement would melt it and be too brittle. Superglue probably wouldn't stick. If it did it would be hard to place and keep bubbles out of it. Gorilla glue might work, but again I think it would be brittle.

One "mouse pad" that worked pretty good.... I just cut a patch of blue jeans about 10" square and taped it to the desk. The grain seemed to work fine with a laser mouse.

That worked until I bought a new mousepad. I'm not really sure my Rube Goldberg wasn't better. Really though, with laser mice, in a pinch you can use a piece of paper. It has enough grain for the mouse to work. I've done that a couple times with laptops.

Another thing I do is put the mouse on my knee and use my pants as a mouse pad.

I don't really know how they make a mouse pad, but I have some experience with plastic. I would imagine this is formed in two steps. A layer with the surface on the bottom, injected molded with foam substrate. It's probably a lot like the process I used to make car dashboards years ago.

Molded... never meant to be "reupholstered". If you are bent on trying this, I think denim would be as good a material as anything. That's probably free. Maybe Elmers Glue... paint in on the denim and then press it flat with some books or something?

Looking in my crystal ball I see you buying a new mousepad.
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Old 31st October 2011, 05:12   #7
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You would have to use a glue that you wouldn't feel soaking through and drying. That would be a difficult glue to find. Perhaps a shitload of 2-sided foam tape?

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Old 31st October 2011, 05:20   #8
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i need to figure out what the material is first ted.

i know it's some kind of closed cell foam padding type stuff and i have at least one report large craft stores might carry it.

then again michael's is about the biggest i can think of and in all honesty without at least a name of what i'm after i'm not sure i want to step into 3-4 hours of purgatory if they don't have it.

the stuff RoH suggested almost certainly would work, hell i've moused on my leg before out of curiosity and concluded it worked surprisingly well but there wasn't enough surface area.

in all honesty i'm almost tempted to agree with you on the glue side now that i think about it though, unless i can find some stuff with rubber backing on it.

i suppose if i had to and knew what the material was i could just ditch the reupholstering idea and just use a large square of the stuff by itself, it'd be a decent compromise.

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Old 31st October 2011, 05:42   #9
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I use mousepads I get from Fry's, they are like 99 cents, and I replace it every 2-4 years. Why exactly do you feel the need to have these expensive pieces of fabric and rubber? Super cheap fabric pads are good enough for CAD work, which is more demanding than any FPS will ever be.
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Old 31st October 2011, 14:23   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InvisableMan View Post
Why exactly do you feel the need to have these expensive pieces of fabric and rubber?
1. because it's huge.
2. because it's more comfortable to use than my last.
3. because it works so well and with a 5600 dpi laser mouse in all honesty i'm not sure it'd put up with the lines on jean fabric.

put a high DPI laser mouse on a standard lined, college ruled sheet of paper, the lines will make it incredibly jumpy.

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Old 31st October 2011, 21:59   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too-DAMN-Much View Post
put a high DPI laser mouse on a standard lined, college ruled sheet of paper, the lines will make it incredibly jumpy.
Tried it just for shits and giggles with a cordless laser mouse (my wired mice are ball and optical).

Jeans: fine
steel tabletop (gloss black paint): jittery
printer paper (blank): fine
wide ruled paper (lined): fine
college ruled paper (lined): fine
graph paper (gridded): fine
wax paper: fine
saran wrap: fine, but it wouldn't stay put
tin foil: pointer didn't move much even when mouse was moved a lot
painted wood: fine
my head: fine
my other head: didn't try
couch arm: fine
glass TV screen: pointer didn't move much even when mouse was moved a lot
plastic monitor screen: fine
graphite subwoofer cone while slightly "bumping": fine
graphite subwoofer cone while turned up uncomfortably loud: jittery but still works
12" vinyl record: jittery
Renee's head: fine, but I kept hearing "what are you doing?"
Renee's shirt-back: fine, but she got mad when I stopped
24% lead crystal goblet: pointer didn't move much even when mouse was moved a lot


I really need to get over being sick. Sickness brings boredom and boredom brings some fucked up shit.

Either way, all the materials in question by TDM seem to work fine with my laser mouse, although some materials that weren't mentioned until now don't work.

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Old 1st November 2011, 05:30   #12
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You could test the denim idea by taping a patch to your desk. Denim is about $3 a yard at the yardage store. Talk to the nice ladies and be charming and they'd probably point you at some adequate scrap for free or close. You might want the cheap stuff that's finer than jean material. Cotton would probably work.

It's gotta lay flat. It's gotta have a weave the mouse can read. Past that, it never seemed to matter.

My wood desk is even marginally adequate. I use a Tupperware table. It seems ok.

Really taping that patch to the desk had an advantage.... especially gaming..... the pad didn't slip around from being a spaz trying to blast someone.... then you get fragged while adjusting the pad... not good...

Maybe you should take your mouse and a laptop down to the yardage store. Trust me. You won't be any weirder than the little old ladies they deal with every day.

Lately I've been using a trackball. I hated it to begin with, but a guy does get used to it. For a lot of things, it's become my weapon of choice. I figured my hating the track ball might be a lack of using one. I forced myself to use one for a couple weeks. It changed my mind. Sniping with a trackball is deadly. Your thumb is a pretty good way to control a cursor once you get over being a spaz.
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Old 1st November 2011, 12:59   #13
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i think that one was like $30 when i got it.

if not for developing an indent like that it's perfect.
Mine cost $60 on sale, but was a gift. Nice gift.
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Old 1st November 2011, 17:43   #14
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$60 for mousepad. You gotta be kiddin' Does it do 3 live sex shows a day? For $60, I'd be pimping it out, slapping it around, tellin' it to call me Huggy Bear.
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Old 1st November 2011, 20:26   #15
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I don't think I've used a mouse pad in about a decade.

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Old 1st November 2011, 21:50   #16
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$60 for mousepad. You gotta be kiddin' Does it do 3 live sex shows a day? For $60, I'd be pimping it out, slapping it around, tellin' it to call me Huggy Bear.
The Mouse..... Logitech Anywhere MX Mouse!!!!!
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Old 2nd November 2011, 00:21   #17
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one word. Magic mouse.

Did I forget to tell everyone I can't count?



I imagine that mouse massively sucks for gaming though.
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Old 2nd November 2011, 01:37   #18
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I had a Magic Mouse at my last job. It was cool to show off, but I found it to be uncomfortable and non-ergonomic. Also, the features on it, while fun to show off, are best left on the multi-touch touchpads. Getting used to those features on a touchpad isn't hard. Getting used to those features on a mouse never seemed to happen for me. Despite having paid for it out-of-pocket, I left it there for the next person to discover when I moved away to switch jobs. This new job doesn't use Mac computers, so I don't have as much use for it anymore.

It just seems that the traditional mouse shape fits me best. My mouse pad is a simple, relatively small black Belkin with a built-in gel-style wrist pad. Both the mouse pad and built-in wrist pad are covered with the same type of fabric. No separation issues yet over the last few years. I have to use a mousepad because the glossy painted steel table I use is no-good for optical or laser mice.

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Old 2nd November 2011, 16:12   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swingdjted View Post
Tried it just for shits and giggles with a cordless laser mouse (my wired mice are ball and optical).

Jeans: fine
steel tabletop (gloss black paint): jittery
printer paper (blank): fine
wide ruled paper (lined): fine
college ruled paper (lined): fine
graph paper (gridded): fine
wax paper: fine
saran wrap: fine, but it wouldn't stay put
tin foil: pointer didn't move much even when mouse was moved a lot
painted wood: fine
my head: fine
my other head: didn't try
couch arm: fine
glass TV screen: pointer didn't move much even when mouse was moved a lot
plastic monitor screen: fine
graphite subwoofer cone while slightly "bumping": fine
graphite subwoofer cone while turned up uncomfortably loud: jittery but still works
12" vinyl record: jittery
Renee's head: fine, but I kept hearing "what are you doing?"
Renee's shirt-back: fine, but she got mad when I stopped
24% lead crystal goblet: pointer didn't move much even when mouse was moved a lot


I really need to get over being sick. Sickness brings boredom and boredom brings some fucked up shit.

Either way, all the materials in question by TDM seem to work fine with my laser mouse, although some materials that weren't mentioned until now don't work.
something tells me this mouse is a lot less sensitive than you believe, at 5600 DPI loud music gives this one the jitters.

it doesn't like textures or shininess in the least, it put up with the pattern on that smaller optical mousepad but just barely and that thing picked up dirt and dust from the table often now that i think about it too, get a piece of ash that finds it's way to the lens and suddenly i'm working on one less axis of movement till i blow it out.

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Old 2nd November 2011, 23:18   #20
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What is the point of 5600dpi if your screen resolution is at most 2560x1600? Do you need a quarter or half inch mouse movement to go the entire screen distance?

I have no idea what resolution my mouse is, but I do know it's laser rather than optical or ball.

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Old 3rd November 2011, 01:03   #21
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Do you need a quarter or half inch mouse movement to go the entire screen distance?
yes being able to spin 180 degrees within about a half inch or so is useful in some games actually.

not only that i have a rocker dedicated to changing it between four settings on this mouse.

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Old 3rd November 2011, 01:36   #22
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A half inch at full 5600 dpi is a movement of 2800 dots. That's a hell of a lot more than a 180 degree spin in-game. That's a figure skating quintuple toe-loop at least.

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Old 3rd November 2011, 01:58   #23
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but to answer your question, yes.

more maximum DPI tracking possible -> player can react as fast as possible in the smallest amount of time/space possible -> you get the headshot first.

exaggerated, but yeah it definitely can matter and being able to adjust my sensitivity without skipping a beat while in game is pretty useful too, it's also got a "fine aim" button you hold to slow it down until you release for better accuracy while zoomed with scopes/ironsights.

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Old 3rd November 2011, 02:29   #24
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I'm doing just fine without all that. If I ever do any gaming (usually only if I have some spare time on a Sunday), I just use a basic wired optical mouse, worth maybe a dollar or two. I only get out the wireless mouse when I'm using the computer as a home theater and need something at the sofa, (or if I'm doing really strange tests on various surfaces). These are from games with 32 members playing.




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Old 3rd November 2011, 04:04   #25
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well you have to be good at the game for any nice hardware to help too obviously.

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Old 3rd November 2011, 04:15   #26
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I'm pretty good at that one (BF1942 Wake Island Demo). That's not to say I'd be any good at some of the more popular ones though. I'm too hooked on this one to try other shooter games anyway. I don't get time to play it often, but when I do it's pretty fun.

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Old 3rd November 2011, 08:00   #27
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i use the mouse set at like 5000 is my highest of the four DPI settings, then 4500, then 4000 and 3000 that way if a game is overly sensitive i can switch it down a few sensitivity notches without opening the game's options.

you gotta remember ted, i am the gamer who spends thousands on a computer and would buy that LCD on every key keyboard if i could afford it, i just love nice things.

i'm hoping the new batman one this month is as good in 3D vision as i've heard, the last is awesome with it on.

dead rising 2 off the record looks decent in 3D and not many textures look fucked up in that one either but it takes a huge performance hit, much more so than most games.

but yeah, i buy the best stuff i can find since it'll last me that much longer.

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Old 6th November 2011, 03:11   #28
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would buy that LCD on every key keyboard if i could afford it, i just love nice things
I actually seriously considered it when buying this insane rig I use, until I typed on one at a TIE conference. The keys are much bigger than an average keyboard, and the tactile feedback sucks donkey balls. It would be very hard to get used to, and you would likely never be able to type as fast as you would on a normal keyboard. This review is probably the best in terms of what it really is. Think of an underweight dude trying to pork a very heavyset woman. It's that awkward or more.

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Old 6th November 2011, 22:00   #29
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i have to call bullshit on that for one simple reason:

1. any keyboard is much slower until you've gotten used to it, can take up to a few weeks.

i'd be surprised if it's really any slower once you're used to it enough to touch type on it.
hell at one point in time i was extremely fast on those silicone roll up type keyboards, talk about lack of tactile feedback.

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Old 6th November 2011, 22:39   #30
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That's different; the keys were the same size; even then there would still be a loss due to the keys having nothing to ensure they go straight down. Once you feel what the O.M. keyboard is like, you'd understand. It just doesn't match the human hand in terms of finger reach distances. Your amount of arm movement would change, bringing on a loss of speed to even someone who has practiced for a long time.

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Old 7th November 2011, 04:48   #31
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Originally Posted by PophenteeOS View Post
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Old 8th November 2011, 03:11   #32
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Four days on the run and that he's dying of thirst

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Old 11th November 2011, 20:12   #33
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so as much as i doubt the answer will bear anything but pointlessness, mike, what the hell are you on about?

also, back on topic if you all can quit quoting random bullshit and white boy rapping
i did eventually manage to brave the horrors of the crafty crap place and picked up three sheets of foam stuff for kids to use in shitty little school projects that inevitably will do nothing but fill up the landfills and look ugly, been using those for close to a week and so far so good, no indents have developed, it's cut to large sheet of construction paper size as well so it's not really any smaller than the old mousepad either, it actually works a lot better than i would have guessed so far - but that's a huge so far, the mousepad i'm looking to redo took easily at least a month for it to be noticable - except for the fact that out of anything i've ever dreamed of this crap picks up dirt like a god damn super magnet in a scrap yard.

i also picked up one sheet of stuff that's also called foam but it's different if you ask me, it's not soft and foamy it's got a sheet of tougher stuff that the foam is wedged in between two of, haven't tried that yet mainly because it's too large to fit and i haven't gotten around to cutting it to a size that'll fit on my desk yet.


one thing that worries me about the first material right away though is that i notice it doesn't come clean of the junk that it picks up easily and now that i switch to a fresh surface on top i also notice just how much drag the old one i'd been using was creating as well.

i'm not quite sure if the mouse will track as well on the other type of foam though, i don't expect it to be a problem but this stuff i'm trying out now has give to it so the mouse can get the laser about as close to the surface as possible easier and the other stuff is a tiny bit more reflective where as this stuff isn't reflective at all, basically i'm kinda wondering if the other stuff ever gets bent i'm willing to bet money that it'll crease and basically one bend will ruin the entire pad.

i also found what i'm guessing was cloth topped neoprene at the craft store, out of all the stuff i considered while i was there that was easily the closest to what a standard mousepad is actually made out of most likely but... it did come with two huge drawbacks as well.

firstly (and this is the main reason i rejected it) it was way too thin for this application, while i'm sure i definitely could reupholster the old pad with that stuff and wind up with a good result, it simply isn't thick enough, there would be a very noticeable height change at the butt of where the plastic edge of the desk clamp thing is glued to the existing material, it looks like they double layered it past that point to make up the difference in height, which brings me to...

the second reason, while it may have been probably the most ideal material there it's price was also a bit astronomical, stuff was $14.99 a yard, dayum even if i ignore that i'll need triple the length in most of the pad to make it nice and uniform over the entire pad well... fifteen bucks for something that might not even work well in the first place was quite a bit out of the question.

i'm sure the material itself would work fine but they really didn't have much variety in this stuff and the one roll they did have had tons of stripes and lines and crap going all over the place which i already know this mouse does not like.

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Old 15th November 2011, 04:27   #34
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well... it's shown that the foam shit isn't going to be useful for this, same problem as the original, even showed up slightly sooner too.

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Old 15th November 2011, 04:54   #35
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ouch... so what next?

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Old 15th November 2011, 05:03   #36
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not sure, i've got the other piece of foam type material that i can try still, i doubt that one will have the same problem, but i'm not sure the mouse will track as well on it.

i'll try the second choice material sometime soon, whenever i'm not too lazy to measure and cut it to appropriate size.

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Old 15th November 2011, 06:07   #37
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This doesn't work exactly the way you think. Thread counts in your mouse pad aren't nearly 5000 dpi either. Your mouse uses digital image correlation to see how much you moved the mouse. Higher DPI count means more pixels in the imagining sensors. The surface should be rather agnostic. This is why your mouse will work on a variety of surfaces. What the surface looks like isn't important as long as the mouse can "see" the surface. This is more like digital photography.... not thread counting. I never saw much difference in surface as long as it has some grain.

Laser mice are "dark field" devices and will work on slick surfaces. They hardly need any grain at all but still work on the same principle. Good even on a metal table, or glass, and accurate too.
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Old 15th November 2011, 11:18   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockouthippie View Post
Laser mice are "dark field" devices and will work on slick surfaces. They hardly need any grain at all but still work on the same principle. Good even on a metal table, or glass, and accurate too.
that's an assumption and totally incorrect, some laser mice do have laser sensors that can work on nearly literally any surface including glass, mirrors, etc.

but the laser sensor used in this mouse isn't designed to track on any surface, it's called the "twin eye laser sensor" it was designed to track each axis separately, hell it's pretty bad about smooth or shiny surfaces actually, it won't even track on the wood of my desk at all.

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Old 15th November 2011, 20:00   #39
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Quote:
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so as much as i doubt the answer will bear anything but pointlessness, mike, what the hell are you on about?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEM3dW2oWW4

Song blew my sub. Very bass heavy, great for setting up car systems if that's your thing. (Not techno, dubstep, or anything electronic in anyway)

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Old 15th November 2011, 21:37   #40
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They just used normal bass hit&fades and played them backwards. Pretty interesting effect really.

I have no luck with my laser mouse and extra glossy surfaces like glass and gloss painted steel. The optical mouse doesn't do real well on them either. Ball mice do though.

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